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LVMH Watch Week: Bvlgari brings fine watchmaking to the Serpenti

The smallest automatic Serpenti from Bvlgari features its stunning and novel BVS100 in-house movement, highlighting elegance and technology in perfect harmony

Iconic and alluring, the Bvlgari Serpenti is infused with a greater horological spirit this year.

 
 
Bvlgari BVS100 Lady Solotempo in Serpenti Tubogas in rose gold case and single loop bracelet

Given that this is the Year of the Snake in the Chinese Lunar calendar, it is unsurprising that the jeweller-watchmaker most associated with this zodiac animal has lots ready. Apart from a new Bvlgari campaign where the infinite transformations and rebirths of the snake are celebrated, the Serpenti itself is getting a horological upgrade. Three years ago, Bvlgari introduced the Piccolissimo, a 12mm diameter hand-wound movement at just 2.5mm thick. It turns out it was already working on a self-winding movement, and the BVS100 was introduced last week in a range of Serpenti models – perfect timing.

Bvlgari Serpenti is again transformed with a new spirit. The lady Solotempo BVS100 self-
winding movement is a majot development in micro-mechanism for Bvlgariit

Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Executive Director of Bvlgari Watch Design, says, “The Serpenti is not just an icon; it is a signature.” Inspired by Greco-Roman art and the glory of Roman jewellery, such as that worn by Cleopatra, the Serpenti continues to evolve as a reflection of timeless feminine elegance.

The Serpenti Tubogas with Lady Solotempo symbolises the cycle of renewal, sharing in the Greek and Roman traditions of the animal

The BVS100 Lady Solotempo is just 19mm across and offers a power reserve of 50 hours, which is pretty impressive. The balance has no micro adjustors that we can see, so its performance will be dependent on just how friction is minimised throughout the gear train. It’s developed at the manufacture in Le Sentier and will be used in the Tubogas and Seduttori models, with a mix of precious and non-precious materials for the case and bracelet.

From the first mechanical Serpenti Tubogas to the Bvlgari BVS100 Lady Solotempo, Bvlgari has sough to maintain the look of the watch to a great degree

Two or three-handed models are presented in the timepieces featuring opaline dials in various textures or patterns. The BVS100 movement requires a slightly thicker case middle and has an exhibition caseback where the movement can be seen. The balance bridge sits sturdily across the regulator, and the oscillating rotor features seven grained, scale-like designs to reaffirm the association with the snake motif.

The rubellite cabochon on the crown and scale pattern on the oscillating mass and Seduttori bracelet reveal the brand's attention to detail

The contours of the Serpenti, inspired by the animal, also celebrate the curves of a feminine figure. While the brand is quick to emphasise that the Serpenti can and has been worn by all genders, bringing an automatic version of the Serpenti demonstrates how it believes consumers today demand higher horological standards. This is both true, and yet, at the same time, we’re seeing ever more quartz movements in fine watchmaking. These are certainly interesting times in which we live.

The Bvlgari Serpentis with BVS100 Lady Solotempo models are available today. We’re looking forward to seeing what will be presented during April, when the brand typically holds a satellite programme outside of Watches and Wonders Geneva.

 

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Editor

A familiar face in Malaysia's horological publishing scene, Leong has been involved in lifestyle journalism since the mid-1990s. Besides watches, he takes a keen interest in cars and men's fashion.