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Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025: Grand Seiko

From poetic purple to precision quartz and a titanium-clad beast, Grand Seiko’s 2025 line-up is a full expression of the brand’s identity

 
 

This year, Grand Seiko reveals three standout watches across its Heritage, Evolution 9, and Sport collections—each flexing a different strength. Think nature-inspired dials, mind-bending accuracy, and a chronograph with serious bite.

Grand Seiko SBGW32

First, from the Heritage Collection, comes the SBGW32: a modern interpretation of the classic 44GS design. Its dial draws from the purple kiri flower—Iwate Prefecture’s official bloom—and merges it with the signature Mount Iwate pattern for a soft yet striking texture.

The 36.5mm stainless-steel case houses the hand-wound Calibre 9S64, offering a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance up to 8,800 A/m. Water-resistant to 10 bar and fitted with a box-shaped sapphire crystal, it’s a tasteful blend of old-school charm and modern spec.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA SLGB003

Things get sci-fi with the new Evolution 9 model, powered by the freshly launched Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2. This “Ultra Fine Accuracy” movement delivers an incredible ±20 seconds per year—a new benchmark for mainspring-powered watches.

Cased in high-intensity titanium and measuring just 37mm, it’s the slimmest 9R-series model to date. The dial channels frost-covered trees from Japan’s Kirigamine Highlands, rendered in an icy silver-blue with a tempered blue seconds hand gliding smoothly across. Through the sapphire caseback, a finely finished movement sparkles with jewel-like accents and textures that evoke frozen tree branches.

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

Rounding out the lineup is the all-new Tentagraph chronograph—the brand’s first mechanical chrono in the Sport Collection. Nicknamed ‘Tokyo Lion’, its case is forged from Brilliant Hard Titanium, a material both lighter and tougher than standard titanium. Updated pushers, sharper angles, and a lion’s mane-inspired dial bring both visual impact and functional clarity.

Inside, the Calibre 9SC5 beats at 10 vibrations per second with a three-day power reserve—even with the chronograph running. It packs top-tier tech: vertical clutch, column wheel, three-point hammer, the works. A brown high-strength rubber strap—2.7x stronger than silicone—with a lion’s paw motif completes the package.

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