The Carrera enjoys a major evolution on its 60th birthday.
At its keynote presentation on the first day of Watches and Wonders 2023, TAG Heuer made it clear: the Carrera is the watch that defines the brand’s essence. It’s sporty, innovative, bold, and diverse. The Carrera has spawned over 500 different references in the 60 years of its existence, but there are other interesting developments from the brand this year as well. Let’s break it down.
The Carrera Glassbox
Inspired by the domed hesalite crystals used on watches in the 1970s, TAG Heuer’s designers envisioned a new style for the 21st century. It’s not a throwback to the past, as many are fond of doing at anniversary events, but a peek at what the Carrera will continue to look like tomorrow. The Carrera Glassbox plays on curves.
The sapphire crystal flows seamlessly over the tachymeter scale that runs around the dial edge and into the case. The flanges and indexes are all curved similarly. Whether you think of mountains and valleys or the curves of a Porsche 911 or a vintage Pininfarina Ferrari, it has to be said that the Carrera Glassbox is sexy.
The pump pushers have also been redesigned, angled and curved similarly but with slightly sharper edges than the case. The angles make the chronograph easier to operate. Two versions of the watch exist: a blue dial with a date window at 6 o’clock and a black dial with the date above the brand’s logo at 12. If the placement of the latter is odd to you, it is, in fact, based off an old Carrera: the Ref. 3147 Dato 12, which was the very first Carrera chronograph with a date display.
Both watches have snailed counters for the chronograph totalisers, but the blue dial model has a discreet small seconds display with just 12 little markers and a hand that show its presence. Both models are powered by the self-winding Calibre TH20-00, formerly the Calibre Heuer 02. It features vertical coupling with column-wheel control and has a power reserve of 80 hours. While the Carrera Glassbox is not a limited edition, it is limited in production at the moment. As it scales up, the design should carry forth into new future models.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon will also be presented in the same Glassbox case design, with an aperture for the tourbillon and cage at 6 o’clock. Both the Glassbox Chronograph and the Chronograph Tourbillon feature slight changes to the case with stronger angles which are especially prominent along the lugs. The angling reminds one of a modern art installation, giving it a 21st-century identity.
The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is powered by the brand’s TH20-09 in-house chronograph tourbillon calibre. Formerly the Heuer 02T, it’s COSC-certified and self-winding, with a 65-hour power reserve. The design of the crystal also gives the tourbillon even more prominence, allowing one to enjoy the view of the rotating escapement from amplified angles.
The Carrera Date
The very first Carrera was sized at 36mm, then an oversized model for the industry but now considered to be compact. It had a slim bezel that magnified the view of the dial, and TAG Heuer has now introduced a time-and-date Carrera model that adheres to the same design principles as Jack Heuer intended for the original back in 1963.
On the Carrera Date, an angled minute track unites the dial with the case. The dial features strong angled applied indexes, similar to the case’s design, paired with a three-link bracelet with polished middle links. The case has also been slimmed down, making it a very comfortable timepiece to wear.
The dials come in four colours, starting with a classic silver dial with gold-plated indexes and hands, as well as a deep TAG Heuer blue with gold-plated indexes and hands. Two other funky-coloured models feature sage green and hot pink dials.
The watches are powered by TAG Heuer’s Calibre 7 Automatic movement, which has a power reserve of 56 hours. They offer a 50m water resistance.
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