Grand Seiko expands on the Evolution 9 with a world-class chronograph.
When it comes to developing new watches, Grand Seiko is pushing the envelope. Last year, we saw the Kudu Constant Force Tourbillon, which the brand casually calls its first mechanical complication. This year, Grand Seiko is expanding its mechanical movement offerings with a chronograph that soars above the competition.
The Grand Seiko Tentagraph
The Tentagraph is a high-beat chronograph movement with a power reserve of 72 hours. That makes this watch the standard bearer now in high-frequency 5Hz chronographs. The watch’s movement is the Calibre 9SC5, a 10-beat, vertically coupled, and column-wheel controlled chronograph with twin barrels based off the 9SA5. It features the Dual Impulse Escapement, a design that delivers energy to the balance through the pallet fork and directly via the escape wheel. The escapement is machined using MEMS technology, creating a highly energy-efficient escapement to support the power reserve.
The vertical clutch is what ensures the chronograph’s hands do not jump or shudder, which can occur in horizontally coupled chronographs due to the direct meshing of the chronograph wheels with the gear train. This guarantees the smooth operation of the watch under repeated use.
The Evolution 9 design has a strong, sporty presence, which makes it ideal for a chronograph. On the textured dial, which is inspired by the contours of Mount Iwate, are three counters indicating the small seconds display at 3, and 12-hour and 30-minute totalisers at 6 and 9 o’clock, respectively. The dial comes in a vivid blue Mount Iwate pattern design, with navy blue for the counters and date window between 4 and 5 o’clock.
Grand Seiko has taken this watch further in multiple respects. The movement is tested for three additional days for a total of 20 to ensure that the watch runs precisely when the chronograph is running and when it’s not. Each Grand Seiko mechanical movement must adhere to a +5/-3 seconds per day performance, stricter than COSC standards. The watch is housed in high-intensity titanium with a tachymeter bezel and comes in a matching bracelet. It will be available at Grand Seiko’s boutiques as well as selected retail partners come June 2023.
The Masterpiece Collection Limited Edition SBGZ009
Over the years, Grand Seiko has released several artistic creations that reveal just how truly impressive its Shinshu Micro Artist Studio is. The studio is a small, specialised department that experiments with classic artistic techniques to bring them to life on the wristwatch. This year, the studio’s engravers and artisans have found inspiration in the white birch forest that lies in the eastern part of Shinshu.
The SBGZ009 is a true masterpiece, housed in platinum and fully engraved by hand from the lugs to the dial. The watch is first polished using the brand’s standard Zaratsu method, after which, it is slowly and steadily hand-engraved with long grooves by a single artist. It recalls the pattern that is seen on the birch trees. A similar pattern is found on the dial with a slightly different texture that stands out even more under the light.
On the dial, the minute track and letters are carved directly into the dial, and polished white gold indexes are applied to it. The hands are in a matching mirror finish, with a dark grey running seconds hand. The watch is powered by the manually wound Spring Drive Calibre 9R02, which has an 84-hour power reserve thanks to dual mainsprings running in parallel housed in a single barrel with its Torque Return System. The movement is accurate to one second per day.
The movement is decorated with details specific to the Micro Artist Studio, such as the bellflower pattern in the barrel and hand-finished bridges with polished edges, that contrast with the hairline finishing of the flat surfaces. The studio is credited with a gold plaque on the movement, with the option of customising this detail at a customer’s request. Only 50 watches will be offered up in this limited edition, and it will be available from June 2023 in boutiques only.
The Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8-Day Jewelry Watch SBGD213
Gem-setting is a craft that Grand Seiko has been steadily introducing into its watches, and the latest is a Masterpiece Collection that follows last year’s model. Inspired by a white lion, this year’s SBGD213 offers up a similar design in white and blue precious stones.
The watch has 112 diamonds in the upper surfaces of the tonneau-style case, which has integrated lugs with diamond-set chamfered corners and Zaratsu mirror finishing on the unadorned surfaces. Another 60 baguette-cut diamonds are set into the bezel. Trapeze-cut and baguette-cut blue sapphires and diamonds serve as hour and minute markers. These surround the mother-of-pearl dial in a very deep blue. A peripheral circle of round diamonds and sapphires serve as a minute track for the watch dial.
The platinum-cased watch houses the Calibre 9R01, a Spring Drive movement with an impressive 8-day power reserve. It has three barrels in sequence to provide for this long-lived performance and is accurate to 10 seconds per month. Only eight pieces of the SBGD213 will be produced and it will be available from June 2023 only in Grand Seiko’s boutiques.
