The Roman Maison revisits a signature 1970s design language, proving that opposites still attract when gold meets steel
For decades, the Serpenti has been one of the few watches instantly recognisable from across a room. Bvlgari’s latest interpretation, the Serpenti Tubogas Studs Capsule, doesn’t tamper with that winning formula so much as add a sharper edge to it.
The novelty lies in the introduction of the stud motif, a geometric detail lifted from Bvlgari’s jewellery archives and integrated into the fluid Tubogas bracelet. The result is a watch that feels simultaneously familiar and unexpected. The supple, coiled bracelet remains unmistakably Serpenti, but the gold studs introduce a more architectural, almost industrial character.
The collection is also notable for revisiting one of Bvlgari’s most distinctive design signatures: the combination of gold and steel. Long before the recent revival of two-tone watches, Bvlgari was experimenting with the pairing in the 1970s, treating steel as a design statement, not a compromise. The Studs Capsule revives that idea with three bi-metal references alongside a full yellow-gold version.
Each model measures 35mm and is powered by a quartz movement, underscoring the fact that these are jewellery watches first and foremost. Yet the appeal extends beyond traditional jewellery-watch territory. The dials introduce an impressive palette of materials, including mother-of-pearl, sodalite, malachite and carnelian, showcasing the Maison’s long-standing expertise in coloured stones.
The standout may well be the sodalite edition, where deep blue stone meets alternating rose gold and steel along the serpent’s body. Equally compelling is the malachite version, whose rich green dial provides a dramatic counterpoint to the yellow-gold studs and diamond-set bezel.
What’s most interesting about the Serpenti Tubogas Studs Capsule is how confidently it leans into Bvlgari’s dual identity. Many brands draw a line between jewellery and watchmaking. Bvlgari continues to blur it. These watches are a reminder that great watchmaking can be measured not only in microns and power reserves, but also in the ability to make an icon feel fresh more than 75 years after it first appeared.
