The gold guilloché dial, polished case and hand-finished DR002 movement. Chef’s kiss.
One thing that’s wonderfully convenient about reviving a brand like Daniel Roth is that there’s a generous choice of remarkable creations to draw upon from its past. After seeing overwhelming interest in the Tourbillon Souscription and the Tourbillon Rose Gold, the watchmakers of La Fabrique du Temps are prepared to introduce the next model. The Extra Plat Souscription closely mirrors the original Ultra Thin Automatic from 1990. That model, along with three chronographs, including a rattrapante, followed the tourbillon watch that kickstarted its launch.
The original Ultra Thin Automatic had a Frederic Piguet 71 movement. It was some 6.7mm thin, and a manual-winding version appeared the following year that sliced over another millimetre of thickness. (For those wondering how Bvlgari leapt into the ultra-thin segment so quickly, you have your answer.) The new Extra Plat Souscription is manually wound and has a case thickness just slightly above, at 7.7mm. But there’s a lot more detail in the dial, where the use of rose engine engraving adds two different types of patterns on the watch face.
The result is quite distinct, as is the choice of colour pairings. Daniel Roth played up the contrast between the case and dial in the original Ultra Thin Automatic in its various materials. In 2025, yellow gold is used for the case and dial, with a fitted movement behind it. The proportions are also closer to the manually wound Ultra Thin, with a 35.5mm width and 38.6mm length. The stepped case is perfectly mirror-polished, along with angled and curved violin-style lugs.
Whether you describe the watch as neo-classical or vintage revival, there’s no doubt that one notable difference is the movement. The Calibre DR002 is crafted in the style of traditional high watchmaking with hallmark techniques like anglage, and a satinated winding click. The freesprung balance runs at 4Hz, and the large mainspring has a 65-hour power reserve.
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