The revival of an independent watchmaking pioneer begins with a familiar face
When one chapter ends, another begins—and, for Daniel Roth, this is usually represented by a tourbillon. The watchmaker ended his illustrious tenure at Breguet and inaugurated his eponymous brand with the complication. So, it’s no surprise to see Daniel Roth marking its relaunch under Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps with an ode to the original tourbillon wristwatch that started it all for the brand in 1988.
Enthusiasts will of course know that the Tourbillon Souscription is unique for its double ellipse case. The ingenious design of a cross between a circle and a square is the perfect canvas for a tourbillon because it accommodates an off-centre dial while highlighting the one-minute tourbillion.
The new Tourbillon Souscription has a 9.2mm case with a single face and is executed in yellow gold. It retains the proportions of the original, but with subtle refinements. For example, the typography on the solid gold dial has been streamlined, while the lugs have been reshaped to improve the ergonomics of the case.
Under the dial is the in-house Manufacture calibre DR001, with 80 hours of power reserve, that was made exclusively for the Tourbillon Souscription. Unusually for an industry dominated by round movements, the hand-finished calibre takes the form of a double ellipse. But you’ll have to take our word for it because the DR001, just like all early Daniel Roth timepieces, is concealed behind a solid back bearing the individual number of each watch.
The centrepiece of the DR001 is the tourbillon regulator. The tourbillon makes one revolution every minute, allowing it to function as a seconds hand. As a result, the tourbillon cage carries a three-armed, heat-blued seconds hand that is read in tandem with a tri-sectioned seconds scale on the dial—another detail found on all original Daniel Roth tourbillon watches.
As in the 1988 original, the tourbillon has a detail that’s only apparent to the owner. Because the arms of the seconds hand vary to match each section of the seconds scale, the longest arm of the seconds hand necessitates a tiny groove in the inner wall of the case to allow it to pass through.
Limited to just 20 watches, the Tourbillon Souscription takes after its 1988 predecessor in one final way. It will be sold on a ‘souscription’ basis—meaning that patrons will “subscribe” with a deposit upon order confirmation, with the balance due upon delivery in early 2024.
