The Cover Story of our 2025 Issue 1 goes in-depth on how Montblanc has held fast to its Zero Oxygen concept and continues to expand its potential.
When it comes to watchmaking – or any creative endeavour, for that matter – it’s impossible to predict how the market will react or whether it will fly or flop, no matter how confident the creator may be. A watchmaker rarely sets out to design a cult timepiece from the start. Yet, some creations take on a life of their own, capturing the imagination of collectors and enthusiasts in unexpected ways.
When Montblanc debuted the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen in 2022, it was the first watch on the market encased in an oxygen-free domicile. Initially conceived as an homage to mountaineering legends who ascended summits without supplementary oxygen – and inspired by the brand’s heritage tied to its namesake mountain – it evolved into a groundbreaking innovation in watchmaking.
Strong Concept, Simple Solution
Rooted in a simple concept – that an oxygen-free case can enhance a watch’s performance over time – Montblanc’s Zero Oxygen technology initially faced scepticism. Some dismissed it as gimmicky or over-the-top, while others simply asked, “What’s the point?” Yet, at its core, the concept underscores the growing importance of sustainable luxury, a topic that continues to spark industry-wide discussion.
By preventing oxidation – much like antioxidants in skincare and health supplements – it extends the lifespan of a complex mechanical movement, ensuring lower maintenance, better precision, and less frequent servicing. The absence of oxygen also prevents fogging when the watch is exposed to sudden, severe temperature shifts. It’s important to note, though, that this has little to do with water resistance or case sealing; it’s simply physics and the undeniable power of nature at work. The case is not vacuum-sealed; instead, the oxygen inside has been entirely extracted.
For mountaineers – particularly alpinists familiar with the brutal realities of high-altitude climbing and understand how drastic temperature and altitude changes affect their timekeeping equipment – the Zero Oxygen concept is not just welcome but necessary.
Tried And Tested
In the winter of 2023, Laurent Lecamp joined world-renowned alpinist Simon Messner (son of mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner) to compete in the Antarctic Ice Marathon. Known for its unforgiving conditions, this 42.2km race challenges runners to endure an average windchill of -20°C, with relentless katabatic winds ranging between 10 and 25 knots. The duo eventually finished in 7th place.
During the event, the newly launched Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole was immediately put to the test – both men wore it throughout the gruelling marathon. To the surprise of many, their watches withstood the harsh conditions with flying colours. The movement ran continuously and precisely, and no fogging or moisture was forming inside the case, as would have happened under such circumstances. Most other racers relied on smartwatches, whose accuracy was affected by the drastic temperature shifts.
A Tribute To A Legend
Fast forward to April 2025, and Montblanc introduces the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson LE986, as featured on the cover of this issue. Created in a series of 986 pieces, it pays homage to Reinhold Messner’s ascent of Mount Vinson, Antarctica’s highest peak, in 1986. This also marked the final stop in his Seven Summits challenge (also known as Messner’s List), which involved climbing the highest peak on each continent.
Housed in titanium, the 43.5mm watch features a case middle crafted from a new composite that blends quartz fibres, aluminised basalt fibres, calcium carbonate, and light blue resin. The result is a pattern and hue reminiscent of ancient glaciers, which take on a deeper blue tinge due to their increased density and lack of oxygen. On the left profile of the case middle is an outline of Mount Vinson’s summit, which appears white by day and luminous at night. The dial, crafted using the gratté-boisé technique, displays a blend of blue-green and light grey hues, enhanced with a smoky gradient effect.
Powered by the Calibre MB 29.25 automatic movement, the watch features Montblanc’s Manufacture Worldtime complication along with the instantly recognisable, three-dimensional rotating globes that define the 1858 Geosphere series. Look closer, and you’ll notice that the locations of the seven peaks from Messner’s List, as well as the Mont Blanc massif, are marked on both the Northern and Southern Hemisphere globes.
On the titanium caseback, a 3D rendering of Mount Vinson’s summit is created using a meticulous process: first laser-engraved, then laser-treated to produce contrasting matte and shiny finishes, and finally coloured through laser-generated oxidation.
Completing the package, the 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition is the first in the 1858 Geosphere family to feature newly designed rubber straps instead of the previously used calf leather ones. Not only are they easily interchangeable, but they also stay true to the alpine theme with a surface motif inspired by mountaineering ropes. For enhanced comfort and breathability, Montblanc has finished the inner side with a grooved pattern that evokes mountain peaks.
A New Chapter Without Oxygen
This year, Montblanc achieves a breakthrough by combining its highly successful Iced Sea collection – affectionately nicknamed ‘Iced Tea’ by fans – with Zero Oxygen technology, bringing the concept full circle.
Lecamp explains, “Even when market conditions are challenging, if you pair innovation with strong storytelling and a 360° approach, it works. We continue to see growth in the product lines we’ve launched over the past few years. To date, collectors from more than 20 countries have been following and supporting all the Iced Sea models since day one, and whenever we introduce a new iteration, they pre-order.”
According to him, interest in the Iced Sea collection remained strong last year. With the launch of the new Zero Oxygen Iced Sea series, he anticipates an even larger following ahead.
What comes next after Zero Oxygen, and what more can be done? “I don’t think we can innovate beyond what has already been developed for the concept,” Lecamp acknowledges. “But considering the significant impact Zero Oxygen technology has on the watch movement, our focus now is on accelerating execution and expanding its availability.”
In an exciting development, all existing owners of Montblanc’s earlier Iced Sea watches will now be eligible for a Zero Oxygen upgrade at a very reasonable price, which includes basic maintenance. To take advantage of this, they simply need to send their Iced Sea watches to a Montblanc boutique or a Richemont service centre, where Montblanc’s experts will integrate the Zero Oxygen technology into the existing case. The brand will release more information at a later date, so look out for future updates on our blog.
The Novelties
Montblanc’s novelties at this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva include two exciting new additions to the Iced Sea collection.
First up, responding to market demand, is a scaled-down iteration – the Iced Sea Automatic Date 0 Oxygen – featuring a 38mm case and two new dial colours: white and light blue. These are paired with matching ceramic inserts set into unidirectional rotating bezels. The blue dial is decorated with a sfumato effect, an Italian painting technique that gradually merges colours and tones to create a smoky appearance. Offered with either rubber straps or steel bracelets, these new variants also comply with the ISO 6425 standards for dive watches.
Next, for the original 41mm model, Montblanc introduces a new iteration featuring a steel case with a distressed finish. What’s particularly interesting is that the manufacturing process is closely tied to the brand’s DNA – it involves brushing the steel with quartzite from a stone quarry at the Mont Blanc massif before being manually washed to achieve its weathered appearance. The result? Each case ends up with a unique look, further accentuated by a black coating applied at the end.
For added textural contrast, the first 15-minute section of the rotating bezel undergoes a two-step laser process to recess the surface and create depth, allowing the number 10 and the minute markers within the recessed area to appear more prominent than the rest of the digits on the bezel. The glacial-patterned dial, crafted using the gratté-boisé technique at its base, has become an Iced Sea signature. To complement the deliberately aged look of the steel case, the dial has been tinted grey and finished with a sfumato effect that darkens towards the periphery.
For those unfamiliar with gratté-boisé, this age-old technique creates depth and luminosity by mirroring the texture of glacial ice. Requiring more than 30 meticulous steps, this intricate process takes four times longer to complete than a standard dial. The result is a subtle play of light and darkness, realistically evoking the crystalline formations of ancient ice frozen in time for millennia – such as the Mer de Glace glacier on the Mont Blanc massif – which serves as the inspiration behind the Iced Sea Collection.
As with all Iced Sea timepieces released from April 2025 onward, the new models mentioned above are encased using Montblanc’s Zero Oxygen technology. While we eagerly await how this catalytic innovation will further impact the watchmaking industry in the future, expect queues for inquiries regarding Zero Oxygen enhancements from existing Iced Sea owners. It will also be a great opportunity to send that watch in for a health check.
