The sea urchin-inspired collection welcomes a vivacious version in yellow gold and fire opal.
When LVMH announced in 2023 that Gérald Genta would be relaunched under the auspices of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, many were excited to see the first collection of the revived brand. That came in the form of the delectable Gentissima Oursin, which debuted mid last year as a trio of grade 5 titanium models embellished with white gold beads, yellow gold spikes, or rose gold beads and diamonds. While we eagerly anticipate what other horological delights will be uncovered and reinterpreted from the late, great designer’s archives, it seems the brand isn’t done with the Oursin just yet, releasing a luxurious, radiant model in yellow gold adorned with fire opal and orange carnelian.
The Oursin story traces back to a 1994 family vacation in Corsica, where Gérald Genta was captivated by a sea urchin – ‘oursin’ in French – which sparked his creative vision. Inspired by the creature’s spiny form, Genta instinctively translated its unique shape into a round case embellished with beads, crafting a distinct aesthetic. Thirty years later, the Maison is honouring its founder’s legacy with the fourth model in the collection that not only celebrates his unique sense of beauty but also his attraction to meaningful and powerful stones.
Evelyn Genta, Gérald’s wife, who holds the Oursin close to her heart as one of her favourite designs, shares: “The Oursin was among Gérald’s few creations that he was proudest of; he actually almost didn’t want to sell them and produced only very few for very close friends and clients. Seeing the new Oursin Fire Opal reminds me so much of Gérald, how much he loved adorning stones on his watches and looking at them through various light sources. The multiple ways a stone catches light was for him an endless source of fascination and its own definition of beauty.”
The choice of fire opal here is evocative of the passion, creativity, and energy embodied by the gemstone, which has been historically associated with artists, musicians, and anyone seeking that creative spark. The watch’s 36.5mm yellow gold case with a glass-blasted finish is festooned with 137 fire opal beads individually screwed into the case with a yellow gold pin. Showcasing a vibrant orange carnelian dial accented with yellow gold 5-minute markers and gold hands with luminescent inlays, the watch is topped with a faceted sapphire crystal. Its eight planes create a striking octagonal shape, a hallmark of Gérald Genta’s design language.
The thoughtfulness in the design and execution of the watch extends to its movement as Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, La Fabrique du Temps Master Watchmakers and Founders, share: “To complement the design, we focused on producing this piece using nothing but the highest attention to detail. We designed a specific oscillating mass in 18-karat yellow gold for the automatic Zenith Elite movement.” The calibre, with a substantial power reserve of approximately 50 hours, can be admired via a sapphire crystal caseback.
Paired with a black alligator strap, the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal will be available from May 2025, with price upon request. It will be limited in production, though no exact numbers were revealed, which may inadvertently make it even more desirable to some collectors.
