The Swiss watchmaker’s iconic pilot watch soars to greater heights with two new models
In the 1950s, the French Air Force announced that it wanted to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch that met specific technical specifications. It had to have a black dial with luminescent numerals and hands, a high-quality movement resistant to changes in pressure and acceleration, a rotating bezel, and a flyback function. The Air Ministry then gave the future product the enigmatic name of “Type XX”.
Several companies competed for the contract and won. This meant that several brands would produce Type XXs for the military, while, on the other hand, those selected for public contracts could also sell the same product to private customers. Hence, the production of military Type XXs and civilian Type XXs. Breguet was among those given this right.
For 2023, the Swiss watchmaker is releasing a new generation of Type XX watches. They might have been four years in the making but, by the looks of things, it has been well worth the wait. Immediately, enthusiasts will know that the two iterations take their cues from the debut models of the 1950s.
The Type 20 Chronographe 2057 is inspired by the 1100 model delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, instead of the usual Type XX in Roman numerals seen in other models.
Its black dial has been updated but stays true to the Type 20 identity. The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, which is also used for the hands. The 30-minute totaliser at three o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totaliser at nine o’clock. A date window has been added between four and five o’clock.
The 42mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, like that of the models delivered to military air forces in the past. The crown in the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: neutral, date correction and time setting. The two o’clock pusher activates the chronograph, while the one at four o’clock triggers the flyback function. Under the hood is the new self-winding Calibre 7281 with 60 hours of power reserve.
The Type XX Chronographe 2067, on the other hand, references the civilian Type XX model from 1957. The dial might share the same hue as its 2057 sibling, but it differs in several respects.
For starters, the 15-minute totaliser is located at three o’clock, the 12-hour totaliser at six o’clock and running seconds at nine o’clock. The totaliser also is sized differently to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible. Further, the Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment.
The 42mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: neutral, date correction, time setting. Similar to the 2057, the two o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at four o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the flyback principle. This model is powered by the new self-winding Calibre 728 with 60 hours of power reserve.
Both models are fitted with a calfskin strap but come with an additional black NATO strap contained in its havana-coloured leather case reminiscent of an aircraft wing. The rapid interchange system (RIS) of the bracelets has been designed to enable the easy, independent, and tool-free removal of the leather strap.
