Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel: Malaysia Price And ReviewWritten by Leong Wong
Getting the Breguet blues. And it's a good thing.
Under any other circumstances, it’s fair to say that if a brand were to slap a navy dial onto a longstanding favourite and call it a new iteration, we probably wouldn’t feel as compelled to put fingers to keyboard. But, then again, Breguet isn’t just any brand, and the watch that you see here isn’t quite its usual set piece.
What makes this release special in the Breguet context is the fact that its dials are customarily either white or silver with hands in a colour that has come to be known as Breguet blue. In this instance, however, the Swiss watchmaker has decided to use its signature hue on a grand feu enamel dial for the first time.
The production process mirrors that of the bluing of the hands, which means the dials are fired in a kiln at over 800°C. This allows the enamel powder to fuse to the plate onto which it is dusted. Several layers are applied to obtain the desired shade and the result gives the dial its unique grain.
For contrast and readability, this new 5177’s open-tipped hands are made of rhodium-plated steel. For the same reason, the Arabic numerals, stars, diamond shapes and fleur-de-lis on the chapter ring are silvered and larger in size. Their relief is the result of a delicate, powdered tracing. The same process is used for the date as well. Meanwhile, Breguet’s ‘secret signature’, also in enamel, can be found at six o’clock and visible only when the dial is tilted at a certain angle.
In all other aspects, the 5177 remains faithful to the Classique range’s well-established design codes. Apart from the dial, with its open-tipped hands and Breguet numerals, you’ll find other familiar signifiers, such as the fluted caseband and thin, straight lugs.
Inside, the self-winding mechanical Calibre 77Q, with central second hand and date, fuses the best of old and new.
The finishing is decidedly traditional: Geneva stripes and circular graining decorate its bridges and plates, while a hand-worked rose engine-turned guilloché pattern adorns the rotor. In contrast, modern materials such as silicon for the hairspring, escape wheel and lever are employed to ensure enhanced performance, durability and reliability.
Basic yet recognisable, the Classique 5177 is arguably the most iconic of all Breguet wristwatches. Thanks to a simple colour twist, we get to see it in a whole new light this year. With Christmas just around the corner, the 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel will be the perfect stocking filler for the (lucky) watch lover in your life. But if it ends up taking a detour onto your wrist instead, we won’t blame you one bit!
|38mm 18K white gold|
|Grand Feu blue enamel with silvered numerals and markers, Breguet ‘moon’ tip hands in rhodium-plated steel|
Automatic Calibre 777Q
|Dark blue alligator leather|
|Hours, minutes, seconds and date|
Editor, CROWN Malaysia
A familiar face in Malaysia's horological publishing scene, Leong has been involved in lifestyle journalism since the mid-1990s. Besides watches, he takes a keen interest in cars and men's fashion.
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